It is 7:15 Houston time and we are on the flight from Houston to Amsterdam, our first leg of the trip to Rabondo. Paula and I are on the same row with Paula by the window near the middle of the plane, over the wings. Carlos and Tommy are in the rear of the plane in their seats, Tommy working on his solitaire fix and Carlos watching a movie.
Since we had to revise our plans after the shipping container did not arrive when it should last month, we were told and were under the impression that we could each only bring one checked bag of 50 pounds or less, with any additional bags costing $50 each. I had two bags, both of which weighed under the 50 pounds and I had resigned myself to paying the $50 dollars for the second bag. The second bag had donated items specific for the trip and I did not want to donate them to another group. The suitcase containing the donated items also included a rolling duffel bag that I included just in case with the intention of leaving both bags at Rabondo.
We get to the airport and in the midst of checking in, we get our first blessing. The gentleman helping us check in allowed us to check two bags each without penalty!! It turned out that Carlos' bag exceeded the 50 pounds. I took the duffel bag out and he reorganized his bag into two and checked them both in. Tommy's bag was overweight and Paula's was under weight so Tommy removed items and placed in Paula's.
We sure looked disorganized to the people in line behind us and they may have gotten frustrated, and for that, we are sorry. But for the three of us to be able to save $50 each, THAT IS A BLESSING!!
The prayers of the saints are surely covering us and we are grateful.
It is Monday 4:20 PM Houston time and 11:20 PM Monday night here in Nairobi. Paula is taking a shower and we have eaten. We were met at the airport by Pastor George and several men from his church, King's Tabernacle here in Nairobi. They got us to the hotel and took us a restaurant where we ate talapia under the stars!! The meal also included greens (didn't taste like collards, mustards or turnip greens), tomatoes & onions. The "bread" was like a meal and water shaped loaf. The food was eaten with the hands.
The flight from uneventful from Amsterdam to Nairobi. Departing from the plane and entering the terminal reminded me of a gym, lots of sweat and body odors. After we went through customs, got our bags and went outside with Pastor George to wait on the cars, the cool breeze felt great!! We are staying at the Terminal Hotel -- cheap and austere. The bed's are wooden slats and not quite 6 inch foam -- hard to sit on. I'll let you know how I feel in the morning.
We are going to rest, eat breakfast and meet George to get our food supplies. He wants us to visit his church, tour the slums and have lunch or dinner with him before we go to Rabondo. We'll see what happens. As any person on mission trip will tell you, flexibility is everything.
Tuesday, Oct 13
It is 8:15 in Nairobi. Paula and I have been awake for a couple of hours. We've gotten dressed, our bags are ready and we went downstairs to the cafe next door for breakfast. We both had the number 4 breakfast: 2 slices toast, tea, 2 fried eggs, bacon and sausage. It was served with a tomato slice on top of a slaw. I also had passion juice. Although I could not eat all of mine, it was good. We had smelled the bacon through our window and it was too enticing to pass up. I paid the waiter $4 US and received 550 Kenyan shillings for change! What a deal.
Tommy and Carlos are still asleep and we (or rather I) woke them upon our return, a few minutes ago. Paula and I are sitting in the "balcony" outside our window. There is a bird's nest across the small courtyard and while there are just a few birds, you would have thought there was a flock of hundreds with the noise and chatter.
Although I did not fall asleep immediately, the bed was fairly comfortable -- no back aches when I awoke which is a good thing. The weather is comfortable -- a slight cool breeze and it is cloudy. There is no air conditioning but we were quite comfortable last night. I dressed in a long sleeve shirt with, can you believe, culottes that I found at a thrift store!!
Tommy and Carlos are up and headed down for breakfast and we are going to sit with them.
Tuesday, October 13
It is eleven PM here. We did not get as much accomplished as we'd hope, looking for the dental chair attachment, the transformer and did not make it to the nursery or bee farm. We will leave for Rabondo in the morning. We will pick up our water and groceries, get the bee-hive and fruit trees and begin the 300 mile plus trip. We did drive by Kenya Methodist University (Go Kemu!) and several secondary and primary schools.
The container still has not left Mombasa and Pastor George will drive (again) tomorrow to hopefully facilitate the paperwork for the container to complete its own journey. We will make do with what we have to get started in anticipation of the container's arrival.
We thank and bless Pastor George for his assistance in guiding the container through customs. and fighting on our behalf. We learned a very important lesson. In an attempt to maintain a certain standard, items that are deemed "old" are taxed a higher duty rate than those items that are new. This holds for clothing, electronics, etc.
The time difference finally was felt by us by lunch time. We were all taking turns nodding waiting for the food to be served. We had the same type of fish prepared differently for lunch. For dinner, we walked across the street for Chinese -- and it was not bad, either!!
Maybe it was because we were so tired that the noises from the restaurant below was turned to mute in my brain. Right now all I can hear is the loud clatter of plates, people talking and the guy that is doing some kind of carpentry work nearby. At least the birds are asleep.
There is so much smoke and exhaust, I am hoping the rural village will be better for me lung-wise. Wonder if there are any animals out there? ;-}
Wednesday October 14
We have had breakfast by 8:15 or so and Albert, our driver, has arrived. We go across the street to the supermarket to purchase our provisions and snacks. I'm sure we look like the other tourists in the store --dazed and shell shocked, as if this was the first time any of us had even been in a grocery store before. We bought large quantities of beans, rice, meal to share. Some emergency foods in case we have digestive issues and of course, snacks. Oh, and did I fail to mention the 12 10-liter bottles of water? All of that is boxed and paid for, loaded on the van and then all the luggage is brought down from the rooms. I did mention that we were upstairs, right? What we (or maybe it is just me) would consider the third floor is actually the second floor. Anyway, got the luggage down and loaded. Tommy wanted to buy a beehive (with bees of course), fruit trees and grapevines. We went to one facility and while they had beehives, they did not have bees on the premises. It would take one to two hours to bring them to the location. We went to a couple of different nurseries but none had any decent trees because of the drought. So, we continued on, officially started our trip to Rabondo about 11 AM.
The highway was very good for a long time. Then we came to a section that was being repaired. It kind of jarred your kidneys. Then we got to an unpaved area that jarred kidneys and bladder. Fortunately we did not have bad road again until we neared Rabondo and that road felt like a sadistic massage.
We passed so many small villages or townships and saw the infamous Masai herders, men, women and children along the road. There were strange and unexpected business names such as the Harindinar Butchery and Hotel, Melchizedik's Hospital and the Texas M Center in Celota. There were all kinds of schools for the children, kindergarten through secondary, both boys, girls and "mixed." There were merchants selling clothing, shoes, vegetables, fruits; shepherds with sheep, goats, cattle; herds of zebra and antelope; people in the fields or preparing their fields, people picking tea leaves and harvesting sugar.
At one stop for petrol, there was a "cafeteria" which VERY LOOSELY defines it. One menu item was "beef" hamburger, there were meat pies and hot dogs. I thought I would be safer with the hamburger. I got a hamburger and Orange Fanta and it cost $410 Kenyan shillings. It certainly smelled good when I got. I took one bite of the ground beef to find that it was more soy than beef.
Let's not discuss the bathroom.
The next stop was almost by accident. Tommy was asking Albert about a stop made by a driver on his previous trip, looking for ebony items. Oh, you mean the one we just passed? We go back. The little stand was the Hakuna Matata (no joke) shop. The items looked like the usual tourist stuff. I glanced quickly and went to the bathroom, a little apprehensive of what I might find. Man! I struck the mother lode! There was tile on floor, a western-style commode and mirrors! There was even soap and a towel.
The long drive gave me the opportunity to realize that I had missed sending the daily devotional's. Hopefully I'll have sufficient time to access the internet to send Thursday 's. It also gave me an opportunity to think of what Pastor George told me in conversation. He said "I am welcoming home a lost sister, a family member and I know that you will be back again." The farther from the city the more I felt as if I was returning to a home that had missed me and I it. I am so grateful for this opportunity.
It has started to rain here in Rabondo -- it is hard to tell if it is the kind that will make driving for Albert difficult in the morning but it sounds good and without air conditioning, makes the room feel good. It will also make it difficult for the truck with the container that is due to arrive tomorrow. Well, God never said it would be easy.
I took over 440 pictures today. Of course I will not post all of them because otherwise, how could I bore you once I return home?
Thursday October 15
There are chickens on the compound. If there are chickens, there's gotta be a rooster. He introduced himself about 4:22 this morning. He continued to sing his praises for two hours. Do you broil a rooster or boil a rooster?
I took my laptop off the charger and put the camera batteries on the charger. I laid back in bed. I decided since I was up and the sun was beginning to come through, I may as well get up. I did and took a few good pictures. I piddled and Paula got up. The next thing I know, Paula is asking me if I'd like to join her on a walk to the garden with Night, a young girl that work's at the compound. Thinking that the ground is muddy from last night's rain, I put my leopard print rubber boots on and strike out the door. Yes, I did get a strange look.
Night leads us out the door to where the corn (maize) is growing. She points out shrubs and what looks like weeds to me that are medicinal. We leave the corn field, walk up the road a little and there is another field with more corn, beans, soy beans, sugar cane, sweet potatoes and cassava
We finish our walk and go to the dining room for breakfast. Aseneth has prepared breakfast. You would never guess that she is 61. She walks two kilometers both ways to come to the guest house. She has seven children, with the youngest living with the oldest to go to school.
After breakfast we make it up the hill to meet the primary and secondary principals and take a quick tour of the campus. Today is Education Day and the parents and family are here to celebrate.
Friday October 16
After breakfast I walk the quarter uphill mile to the secondary school to meet with Samuel. Is the distance longer if it is uphill and crooked than straight and flat?
I go to the principal's office and we discuss what he would like for us to do until the container gets here (if it gets here) and the needs of the school for the community. Math, English and Swahili textbooks are seriously needed. The ratio of books to students is currently one book for every five students. Because of the Christian Education lessons, Bibles are required for each student, and, again there is a serious need. The preferred Bible is the Revised Standard King James or Good News because of the ease of reading.
A library would be a great addition to the school as there are no outside reading resources for student to help them with their English comprehension and vocabulary. There is a massive need for lab equipment, starting with lab stools, moving on to microscopes, petri dishes, beakers, etc.
There is the preliminary discussion of adding vocational training such as wood shop or metal shop but are hindered by electricity and lack of instructors.
The Rabondo School is starting to receive some government assistance for the cost of books and teachers, but it is not enough to meet the needs of the community. Lots of children drop out because the parents cannot pay the fees. The cost of fees for an academic school year is $7, 400 Kenyan shillings (about $100 US dollars).
I volunteer to assist with a class and, on Monday, I will teach CRE, Christian Religion Education. I'm covering a class on Jeremiah and doing a second class with an overview of Luke. I was given the syllabus to review from Madam Jemilla. She and I reviewed the syllabus and she asked me to come back to the school in the afternoon to speak to a class and answer any questions they may have about me. She wanted me to especially discuss the reason to continue with education, discourage teen pregnancy and early marriage and whatever else I felt relevant. (Piece of cake – yeah)
As I am slowly making may way down the steepest rock steps imaginable, one of the teachers asks me to come inside the class room and speak. No problem. Didn't know until I walked in it was a chemistry class and they were discussing distillation properties. Guess it is just a God thing that I work for a chemical manufacturing company.
When I get near the gate, Tommy and Carlos are reviewing the survey for the placement of a water well and the grading for the container. I continue down the path for lunch.
The cook had prepared lentils and a very tortilla looking bread.
After lunch I went back up for my come to Jesus meeting with the students. It so happened that I was wearing a t-shirt received from the blood bank stating, “Commit for Life”. How appropriate – I'll tell the kids to commit to education for life, since we never get too old to learn, it is something we can pass on but cannot be taken away from us. How naïve am I?
I can tell that some of the kids are quite receptive and others are not. I ask what countries have they studied in geography and which of those countries would they like to visit. One teen responded with Minnesota. (The founder and major benefactor of the school lives in Minnesota so all the children are aware of it as a place.) Ok, so you know where you want to do, how do you get there? Another teen said sponsorship. No, I replied. There are no sponsors. How do you get there? Finally someone said a job. Ok, how much is a plane ticket? The response is that another visitor said it cost $2,000 US dollars which is about $140,000 Kenyan shillings. What kind of job must you have to be able to pay 140,000 shillings to go to Minnesota? The two answers I got were doctor and ambassador. What does it take to become a doctor or ambassador? And of course, education.
After I finished my spiel and asked for questions, they wanted to know things about my standard of living at home, where was my husband, how many children, did I drive a car to get to work, did the people in my work live and work in the building, what is the economic policy of the United States, is it true that the United States and Russia started the Cold War.....?
Last evening we had invited Elle to play cards and bring a couple of students. Tonight we introduced Rabondo to Tiki, and, quite frankly, it will never be the same.
Sat October 17, 2009
Morning is free for exploration and visits – one of which was a young man that wanted to see Tommy. Tommy referred him to me because he had brought part of his college application. He was applying to Brigham Young University – Hawaii. (Turns out he thought Barack Obama attended the university.) The application was the section for the parent/sponsor in relation to financial aid. He wanted Tommy (or any of us) to pay the $30 application fee and complete the form as a sponsor. I told him that we can not do that at this time but that I will send him information on other schools that may have a better financial aid package.
Tommy has had about all he could stand. He calls his wife Peggy (wakes her up) and tells her to contact the shipping agent and everyone concerned, that if the container is not here before we depart, it will be sent back to the United States.
There are several men that are preparing the ground for the container and have started digging a trench to act as the foundation. Rocks will be added to the trench with concrete placed on top.
Tomorrow we know that we are attending a Catholic service in the afternoon and we are going to Homa Bay in the morning.
It has rained in the evenings, so it is very comfortable. Since I usually sleep in flannel pajama's EVERYWHERE I go, it feels good – not hot nor cold. The rain only last 10-15 minutes although today there was a little bit more.
Sunday, October 18
Another beautiful day. We had decided as a team that we would be self-sufficient with our cooking and eating. Tommy's previous experience was that the food was too greasy and not spicy. Well, for Tommy, nothing is too spicy. This was an oatmeal morning for me (I had instant oatmeal so only needed the water). Tommy will eat fruit, cheese and cookies, although not necessarily in that order or combination. Carlos will do oatmeal or whatever he finds in the refrigerator. Paula is usually talking with Aseneth as she prepares meals and will eat what is prepared.
Our car arrives and we pile in. Some of the worst road imaginable is between here and Homa Bay. To call that stretch of road a road is to insult roads. Either there was no blacktop and the gravel looked like moon craters in front of us, or the blacktop had been shirred into a maze that only two wheels ever touched at one time. After a tortuous two hours punctuated with the vibrant patterns women wear on their way to church, cattle or sheep being herded or a quick view of the women washing at the river, we arrive!!
It is usually me that wants to use the bathroom. And I did. And the driver found out where I needed to go. And he showed me. In the cornfield. A man led me to the entrance and held the door open. There were two stalls, “bad” and “oh, my God”. The funniest thing is that while they were the hole in the ground toilets, they had bowls that actually flushed!
Maintaining my Western dignity, I leave the stalls as the gentleman is holding the gate and I realize I have no change to “tip”. In looking in my bag, I misstep and my left leg ends in a hole in the cornfield. Now not only do I need to tip for the so-called toilet facilities, I need to tip for helping me get out of the hole. Welcome to Lake Victoria!
I manage to get back with my group and we watch the people in their boats, the children jumping and playing in the water, the women cleaning and pricing fish. I ask what this and that is – recognizing the sweet potatoes, greens, corn being dried, etc.
There are all types of vendors, with the one we are least apt to see in the United States is a person selling empty plastic bottles – be they soda, cooking oil, empty water bottles – they are being used in the ultimate recycling program.
We stop at the “New Jersey Hotel” for a Coke. Paula does manage to pick up a of items. Carlos ends up buying a watch. We head back to the Rabondo compound.
The second largest fresh water lake in the world and there are no tourist attractions. Practically anything developed would provide some jobs and opportunities in improving the economy and lifestyle.
The trip back we see different “stuff”. There is a procession with a man on the right and women on the left carrying a banner. They appear Catholic but it is difficult to tell. Further down the road there is a large group of people singing and dancing which we assume is a service of some kind. As we pass them a few hundred yards there is a group that is coming toward us, apparently going to the service.
We get back to find Molly waiting on us. Molly runs an orphanage for sexually and physically abused girls, some of which are as young as eight. Timon (Bondo, founder of the school here in Rabondo) had told her he had American friends and asked her to come by and introduce herself. She is also Catholic and will join us for service this afternoon.
She tells us of the need to protect the girls as they are disposable. She collects the girls from the streets and brings them to her home where she feeds, clothes and tries to get them educated. However she lacks funds for food and tuition and medicine. She recounts the story of one young girl whose mother died. The father then started raping the young girl, giving her HIV-AIDS and syphilis. Molly was able to get the girl and have charges filed against the father. He is out on bail but has threatened to kill the girl so the rape charges would be dropped. Molly is now having to hide the young girl until they can go to court.
Two priests, Fathers Tim and Nathaniel come to pick us up. The only problem is they are in a pickup truck and the four of us would not fit, not including Molly. In the end, Molly, Tommy and I go to the church service. We did not take a road to the church, we took a cattle trail. There were times when both Tommy and I did not think the truck would make it up the incline or through the mud, but we did safely arrive.
The church has four brick walls. There are benches and for the guests they bring us plastic chairs (thank God!). The mass is said in both English and Luo (the mother tongue). There is a table that is used for the altar and when the offering is called, a young child holds a basket up front for people to walk to and place their offering. One women gets assistance to bring chickens as an offering. I can only think of the widow's mite and smile.
There is a makeshift canopy and it does start to rain. All of the people (about 25 kids and 50 adults) are not covered, and some will get wet. Thankfully the rain does not last long and neither does the Mass.
The village church is near the home of Luke and, unbeknown to Tommy and I, that is where we go next. We meet his wife, drink a soda and Luke gives each of us a bag of ground nuts, what we call peanuts. We then leave and go back down the hill, praying our way back to the compound.
In the evening I connect the projector and computer and watch one of the videos that I have. I've done it for two nights and one movie, Tyler Perry's “Meet the Browns” gets a good reception. Two of the boys that live in the guest house join us along with Night and a couple of others.
Monday, Oct 19
Paula will catalog books for the library today. Tommy and Carlos will check on the foundation for the container and the playground equipment. I will teach CRE – Luke and Elijah. My plan is show pictures of the Holy Land relevant to Luke that just happen to be on my laptop. Of course, best laid plans.....
Carlos sits in on the class and takes pictures. I discuss Luke and ask the usual questions of who is Luke, what is the purpose of Luke, etc. Then we also discuss the relationships that Christ had with his disciples and the women. I try to get the students to remember the political climate of Christ and how his ministry would impact politics.
After our Luke discussion I opened the floor to the students to ask questions of Carlos and myself. The questions again ran the gamut of where do we live to how do we live to why do whites say they are better than everyone else. We really had our hands full.
Two and a half hours after class started, it was over and lunch time. I needed to be back in an hour. I wondered how I was going to make that walk back up the hill.
I had a lite lunch and tried to nap for 15 minutes. I felt as if my strengthen had been sucked out. However I had made a commitment and I took off again. I was late but I made it. The afternoon's class was on the prophet Elijah. We discussed the contest between Elijah and the priests of Baal. We discussed the relevance of Elijah's prophesy in today's world.
I also opened the class time for questions about me and where I was from. My voice was starting to crack – that had never happened to me before. I keep asking if it is time to be dismissed and they keep saying no.
I young man interrupts and ask if they could use this classroom – they were to have been dismissed to another session!! I dismiss the class and find Madam Jemilla. We sit on the front steps and talk, about my sessions, the school, the expectations, her life, etc. and then I start back down the hill. I will return on Thursday. Tuesday is a national holiday and there will be no school. On Wednesday I will go to the primary school as I have not been there to spend any time.
After dinner, the movie that we watch is Nicolas Cage in “Knowing”. I think I would like to take it up to show the CRE class for discussion.
Tuesday, October 20
Today is Kenyatta Day, a national holiday. Although Carlos has been asked to speak to students regarding engineering programs. Paula is continuing with cataloging library books. I am going to spend a little time with Karen. She has asked me to take pictures of her in the field, working her garden to show the people in America. Karen asks me if I could put a “dam” on her property and I explain that I cannot, that we can drill a water well for the community but not for individuals. I am not sure if she understands. We go to the section where she has greens planted and the move to the area with the green onions. She bends the green stalks. I ask why and it is because they want the onion bulb to be large.
I see Tommy and Carlos walking and I ask Night, who has joined Karen and I, if they are going to the river. She said yes. I told her I'd like to go also. So we start down a hill toward the river. I catch up with Tommy and Carlos and we continue our walk. When we get to a stream, Night says this is the river. We move down a little and there are teenage girls washing clothes and bathing Tommy asks if there is an underground spring and she points up a hill to our left. Tommy and Carlos go to check it out.
They don't find it and we head toward a water well that was drilled a little while ago. We find it locked. Evidently the landowner/farmer nearby has the key and while water comes out of the pump, it also comes out of a side it should not. It needs a minor repair that Tommy identifies as quick. He and Carlos will go back up with a wrench to remove the screws and repair the pump.
We make it back to the guest house.
